Home Stay Trek

We are leaving for four nights and five days on a short Sham Valley trek. We met with our guide today and went over everything that we will need. They call this the Baby Trek. In other words they've looked us over and want to see a test drive before getting us out in wilderness at real altitude. It is an acclimatizing trek. The guide, Tenzing and Angchock are also worried about the first village house with a shared traditional toilet. We've done that before and will have to do it again. All will come out well in the end. The next three or four villages will have good private accommodations with what they call western toilets.

Our guide Tingzing ( pronounced Stingzing) is 20 years old and is going to college studying Economics. School starts the end of September. The college is in Jammu. We really like him - good sense of humor and a lot of positive energy. If we all get along he will be our guide for the longer Markha Valley Trek.

We'll be back around the 2nd and can get on line then.

The Delhi water fountain incident resulted in some bad abdominal cramps for a few days and then day by day better and OK now without any other symptoms. Got Lucky!

Darn Dogs!! Evidently, every village and city in Asia the dogs have a special job to do and they do it really well. They bark all night without much break for breathing.

Lalit came through the guest house surprising us since we were not to meet up until 9/2. He is leading a motorcycle tour in Ladakh right now and a cycle had broken down so he had to come into Leh for repair parts. The cycle was 50 km away so he had to run. But it was a joyful reunion. Lalit had guided us for the last month in India last year and helped organize and schedule this trip.

There are two nice young German couples with whom we have become friendly who left yesterday on a trek custom designed by Angchok since they were backpackers with stoves and tents and food already they arraigned for only ponies and a pony man from Angchok. Really nice to recommend him to them and they end up with exactly what they needed and nothing more.

This morning the call to prayer was a duet in two part harmony -- Wow I had never heard that before. Very nice. Then at sunrise the Buddhist beating drums and blowing horns. So up for an early shower and for the first time here the water was not hot at all. Just getting us ready for more primitive environments.

Having breakfast at guest house - the Oriental Guest House in Leh. Good Place. I saw our waiter running across the courtyard and into the garden -- someone had ordered mint tea and he was picking the mint. Much of what we eat here comes from this large garden. Yummy

Hope you are all well. Darryl and Susan

Clowns

We were on our way from the main market in Leh yesterday when we were assaulted by clowns! Not the typical Indian experience and you may not believe it but there is a photo. Of course they were French and very festive so we were dragged into the group and my camera was taken from me and into the photo we went! A real day lifter and unusual.

We also purchased a fresh Apricot pie that was so full of apricots it was about 3" thick. Yumm! We ate about half of it mid afternoon, but a big rat got into it about 2 this morning. Susan doesn't! Know that yet. So I should have gnawed a hole in the little box to make the story believable.

Last night after dinner we were listening to a German couple and two Russian young ladies trying to learn Ladakhis language and discussing it all in broken English! They had several language books and all. We were too lazy to spend much time other than good morning, thank you etc. English is widely spoken. We are spoiled. So far no USA citizens around that we have met but some very nice outdoor oriented people planning treks and adventures. A lot of energy around us.

Many flowers and vegetables in the gardens here at the guest house .. Nice to see much of our dinner being picked a couple of hours before being cooked. Good vegetarian food since the owners are Buddhist.

Today we climb to the Monastery up on the rocky ridge above town and then down to town and to the post office. The post office is another kind of experience. Will tell you about it later.

Darryl and Susan

What can I say -- what a hoot!

Looking down on part of Leh

Back streets in Leh

Travel to Leh

Traditional Ladakhi Dress

Monastery on the ridge above Leh

Looking at jewelry at a Tibetan ladies display

Traditional Ladakhi Ladies

Susan doing the Big Prayer wheel

Beautiful homes in outskirts of Leh

Start of a back pathway back to downtown from a monastery in Leh

Chortels in Leh

View of rooftops in Leh as we came down from upper manastery

Monk greeting visitors to monastery

This puppy joined us for our hike back down into town

At guest house looking through flowersw to the Stok Mountains.

We were up at 2:30 this morning so we could get to Delhi airport for the 5:55 to Leh in Ladakh - Jammu Kashmir. Dragging bags out of guest house hoping to find Mr Omprikash waiting and once out on the street nothing. But then he raised his seat and crawled out of his car Waving to us. I think he may just live in that car. I think he spent the night there so he would be there on time. He Took us directly to the correct terminal and entry door for Jet Airlines. Then the practice in patience began. People going around the lines and pushing ahead and if one gets there ten will follow so at 3:30 having to be very assertive about position in line but all worked out and we even got through the Army security check point relatively unscathed, however my AAA batteries came under great scrutiny until the commander told them that I was fine after staring at my helpless sleepy limp person. But in the meantime most of my bag was scattered all over the counter not to mention the batteries rolling off the side and the army guys just told me to clean it up and move on. During that process Susan showed up, having been released from behind the magic curtain where the army ladies do their hand search of each lady passenger. So in all the mess and confusion I left a decent water bottle behind with clean water at the security check point. I thought If that is all that happens no big deal. This was the Good.

The Bad:
Yes just when I thought I was home free and finally out of the restroom and parched from no water bottle I had a brain freeze and sucked up a bunch of water from a public fountain. Oh no!
The Ugly:
So once I gave up trying to give it back to the disgust and amusement of the crowds of Indians around me it seemed right to kill it with some hot coffee. Ha!

The plane trip to Leh is amazing. Flying over the Himalayas and then weaving our way lower and lower into canyons with the walls sometimes looking as if we could reach out and touch the rocks that seemed just off the end of the wing. Finally things opened up and we were diving steeply for landing still going pretty fast in a large commercial jet liner. Wonderful and frightening all at once.

Back to the Good!
Angchok picked us up with his usual efficiency and had breakfast with us at the Oriental Guest house where we were warmly welcomed back by Phunchok the manager with the traditional greeting of Jullay, Jullay, Jullay in the most cheerful pleasant way and us cheerfully Jullaying back. We discussed the treks with Angchok and we will meet daily to make sure we are ready to be out for 15 - 16 days .. First on a village to village home stay trek then moving straight on to the Markha Valley Trek for 10 or so days supported by ponies, cook, guide, and helper. Oh yes and the pony man.

It is now bedtime and we have had too many mo-mos again and some really good chili sauce, garlic vege noodles and plenty of lemon ginger honey tea.

Leh has many westerners roaming around and having a good time this time of year, but the main tourist crush is over and by the time we leave on Sept 30th most will be gone.

Any nasty bugs that I brought on board in the Delhi airport have not totally manifested themselves. Angchok says the water is not that bad and don't be thinking about it but the mild cramping in my stomach may indicate differently or it may just mean too many mo mos.

We have met many really nice and interesting westerners today. In this area it looks safe for women to be out traveling alone without being hassled - this is a very relaxing good part of India to be in. Fresh Apricots are on the trees and in the markets. Dry and cooler temps rule.

Time for bed .. Good Night all. Darryl and Susan.

Sent from my iPad

Delhi

We did not intend to spend so much time in Delhi at the start of our trip but we have had a good time here. Yesterday we visited the house and grounds where Ghandi spent his last days. There are foot prints on a walkway showing his last walk from his simple room to the prayer area where people gathered to see him and pray together and just a few steps into the area I's a stone marker where he was shot. The museum and all the photos and all his speeches and philosophies were wonderful in those quiet serene surroundings.

We arrived in Delhi on the 22nd at 1:35 A.M. With one bag missing so it took until 3:30 to be in our room at the Likir House. (we also had a delay because when we did get with our guide at the airport he could not get our driver Mr Omprakash to answer his phone and come from where he was parked so we set out to try to find him -- passed out asleep in the car - as it turns out he had not much sleep for the past three days driving tourists around and our long delay with the missingbbag allowed him to get into a very deep sleep. These folks work for Lalit who is our main guide but he is up in Ladakh leading a motorcycle tour. So he has provided a guide and driver who are his employees.) in bed by 4 Then up again for breakfast and on a tour of Akshardham a Hindu temple with many beautiful carvings. The sign said that 300 million man hours had gone into this project. I think I have worked on IT projects with that many hours that did not turn out nearly as well as this temple. It was wonderfully ornate and beautiful. On the way back to the guest house after all day out our guide was telling us all these historical details and very earnestly wanting us to understand but we both fell asleep while he was talking.. So embarrassing .. So back to the guest house and some much needed rest.

The next day a rickshaw ride through old Delhi and the spice market with all the constant activity, push carts, rickshaws, tuk-tuks and men going all directions with huge bags of spices, rice and staple foods. Looks like a bee hive of people. Our guide took us to his favorite shop and we bought a bag of spices and cooking oils and scented oils and lord knows what else. The owner and our guide have given us recipes and we have the shop owners email to write for more. He says he does this all the time and that his shop has been open for 95 years now in the same family.

Yesterday we visited a shop for village arts. The people running the shop go into the remote villages in the Himalayas and other parts of India training the women to weave carpets and make handicrafts in their own traditional style and patterns, and also provide the materials and looms etc. then buy all the goods they make and resell them at very reasonable prices. They are established like a governmental non profit with tax advantages recognized in many nations so custom charges are supposedly waived. We will see because we are shipping a box of purchases home from here.

The day before yesterday we had a wonderful lunch at a restaurant inside the Ethiopian Embassy grounds. Wonderful Indian curry dishes with garlic and potato naan that we still talking about. We want more and more of that. We have adjusted to the smaller portions of food and it still seems that we are very full all the time.

As the day starts here we can hear the parrots and birds in the small park outside our room. We are on the second floor with a large roof patio overlooking the park. People gather in the park in the early mornings to walk and visit. This morning there was a group of very old men shuffling around the walkways and talking -visiting with each other. Then they all gathered in a group for some time and had a big conversation then left in all directions back home. Often there are mothers with young children playing out there. This is an easy place to be in the heart of Delhi. The ice Cream shop is close too!

The street vendors on bicycle carts come through calling out their wares or crafts. Some sell fresh fruits and vegetables while some provide fix it and repair/ maintenance services. Our guest house is totally surrounded by nice private residences.

On the flip side of all this wonderful talk, I think I have sweated at least 5+ pounds off in this heat and humidity and being at the end of monsoon there are many Mosquitos at twilight and night hours so we try to be inside but sometimes do get in some evening and night time walks in the neighborhood.

We are already feeling the release that comes from travel here. No real responsibilities, worries seem to fade away and the sights and sounds just down the street can keep us pretty much entertained along with the many international guests in the guest house with stories of where they have been and where they live. And it will only get better.

Jet Lagged with guide in rickshaw in old Delhi

Spice Market Store ... Good Shop.

Back side of spice market from the roof of the spice shop`

View from rickshaw with driver in front - where else would he be?

Bargaining with another rickshaw driver

Next several photos - just to show streets and electric power lines

Visited Gandhi's Last days area where he was staying.

His last steps and then shot at the stone monument

His plank bed

Ghandi

The contrast too much - had to do this photo

Beggar at the window - at every light

Simple veg meal at our small guest house -- really good meal

Sent from my iPad

We are on our way again

We are changing planes in Europe and heading for India. We will be trekking for the first three month in Ladakh, Nepal, and Sikkim. High passes on all the treks. We are so excited.

Then we will meet Lalit and tour Rajasthan and Gujarat, and South India including Ponduncherry, Kerala, the central mountains .. Ooty. The wild game parks and a lot more. We will be returning late on December 29th.

We will be blogging from India .. Maybe under our aliases: Bud and Curley.

Sent from my iPad